Runup of long irregular waves on a plane beach is studied experimentally in the water flume at the University of Warwick. Statistics of wave runup (displacement and velocity of the moving shoreline and their extreme values) is analyzed for the incident wave field with the narrow band spectrum for different amplitudes of incident waves (different values of the breaking parameter Brσ). It is shown experimentally that the distribution of the shoreline velocity does not depend on Brσ and coincides with the distribution of the vertical velocity in the incident wave field as it is predicted in the statistical theory of nonlinear long wave runup. Statistics of runup amplitudes shows the same behavior as that of the incident wave amplitudes. However, the distribution of the wave runup on a beach differs from the statistics of the incident wave elevation. The mean sea level at the coast rises with an increase in Brσ causing wave set-up on a beach, which agrees with the theoretical predictions. At the same time values of skewness and kurtosis for wave runup are similar to those for the incident wave field and they might be used for the forecast of sea floods at the coast.
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机译：沃里克大学（University of Warwick）的水槽中通过实验研究了平面海滩上长不规则波浪的传播。对于不同振幅的入射波（破碎参数Brσ的不同值），对于窄带谱的入射波场，分析了波上升的统计信息（运动海岸线的位移和速度及其极值）。实验表明，如非线性长波上升的统计理论所预测的那样，海岸线速度的分布不依赖于Brσ，而是与入射波场中的垂直速度的分布一致。上升振幅的统计数据显示出与入射波振幅相同的行为。但是，海滩上的波径分布与入射波高程的统计数据不同。海岸的平均海平面随着Brσ的增加而上升，从而在海滩上形成波浪，这与理论预测相符。同时，波上升的偏度和峰度值与入射波场的偏度和峰度值相似，可用于预测海岸的洪水。
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